Step into the Medina and you are going back in time. The buildings are the same as they were many centuries ago, the narrow lanes, branching in all directions, seem like a maze to the uninitiated. Our guide, Momo, was born there and knew his way, giving tips on what was authentic Moroccan goods and how to conduct yourself.
There aren't any cars in the Medina. Donkeys are used to transport heavy or multiple goods. In the narrow lanes you will periodically hear, "Balack," meaning, attention, move over. You must move aside to allow a heavily laden donkey and its handler through. In some areas the lanes narrow to small passageways, too small even for the animals. These lanes lead to peoples' homes.
We stayed in the lanes where business was done. One lane had numerous sewers who made wedding dresses. Other areas were for butchers, or bakeries where you bring your dough and they cook it for you; other areas had vegetables, fruits, dried fruit stands. There were stalls with jewelry, embroidery, rugs, leather.
The people work hard and have a hard selling pitch if you stop or make eye contact with them. Then they expect you to haggle. They make an offer, you counter and so forth. I dislike this way to do business and I can never get a good price. However, I realize that this is a cultural thing and I respect their ways. The sellers were very aggressive with some of our group, especially for the rugs and leather.
My great grandfather Stewart was an engineer at the tannery in St. John's and his daughter, Min, was a machinist there. The visit to the tannery of the Medina, made me think of Old Tom and Min. The smell of the tannery was unique. The staff gave us fresh mint to hold under our noses while we were there. They took us to the roof to see the dyeing operation, just like it was done centuries ago. They tanned camel, goat, sheep and cow; all hides were worked beautifully into purses, jackets, wallets. They did fantastic work.
It's busy in the Medina and the place is dark even at midday in spring because of the confined quarters or the covered lanes. The guide told us not to judge the places by the doors. They were lovely homes inside some of the doors. However, it was difficult not to be struck by the flies, other insects, sick or starving cats, and some impoverished looking people in the Medina. Some of the donkeys looked like skin and bone as well.
Walking through the Medina this morning, I was reminded how grateful I am for everything I have In my life. I really have everything I need; I am very blessed and every so often, I need to be reminded of my good fortune. Done!
No comments:
Post a Comment