Out and About, Spring ‘25

Picnic day, first of the season. It was sunny and the temperature was going up to 7 degrees Celsius without any wind, great conditions for us to pack up the lunch box and head west to North Cape.

As my husband and I drove towards the Cape, the white water was obvious along the coastline. Lower tide meant waves entered shallow water farther off shore and the tumbling lengths of bubbling water were impressive amid the blue of sea and sky. 

When we arrived at North Cape, we hurriedly left the car! Although my husband and I have lived on Prince Edward Island almost fifteen years, we had never seen the ocean like this. While we have lived though tropical storms, we did so from the safety of our home, never seeing the surf conditions. These surf conditions in this setting were spectacular.

A stretch of reef visible at the North Cape was formed where the waters of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, north of Prince Edward Island, meet the waters of the Northumberland Strait to the island’s south. The waves from both bodies of water collide at the reef.

But the sound…the sound was like a roaring dragon which didn’t take a breath, rather a huge exhale which surrounded you. One could only stand and take it all in.

After the initial experience with the sea, we began to notice the animals which were enjoying the environment that day too. Common Eider ducks bobbed over the waves as they advanced to shore.

Black Scoters were is a row, as one elevated itself ahead and above the others, possibly trying to attract the female farther back. 

Various species of Gulls, played on the breeze and along the shoreline. And typical of this time of year, along the shoreline, a Song Sparrow sang from its heart although its song was drowned out by the roar of the dragon.

Eventually we walked along the shoreline toward the location of a sea arch which looked fragile last year. Sure enough, as Newfoundlanders say, “There it was…gone.” All that remains is a sandy looking sea stack with some holes, making its survival questionable. 

Looking along the shoreline, waves crashed into the cliffs although snow still clung to the coastline in places.

Reluctantly we left North Cape and drove to Kildare Capes to the south. Along the way, we stopped at Sea Cow Pond where fisherman are preparing for the start of the lobster fishery at the end of the month.

Across from the Pond is a horse ranch which always catches my attention. The horses were enjoying lunch at the far end of the pasture.

We had lunch at Kildare Capes, in the yard of Christ Church, built in 1867. It is surrounded by huge trees so even on the windiest of days, the area is peaceful. One can easily imagine the peace people have found in the church for more than a century. After lunch, we walked back to the Capes where the waves crashed into the sandstone cliffs.

My husband and I also walked the boardwalk last week and the beach at Mont Carmel. One evening, I did an Owl Prowl with my friend Lucy and her family. I am determined to see an owl this year on the island. Our prowl at dusk was unsuccessful thus far, but we have just started! 

Here’s hooting for the best!

Along the coast

After a colder, wetter July than usual, our weather has turned hot and humid for the last two weeks. My husband and I have kept our biking to a minimum, unless we know there is a strong breeze. Our one ride this past week was in Cavendish, along the coastline of the Gulf Shore Parkway West, which we visited numerous times last fall and this past spring. Sometimes we were the only people in the area.

Visitors explore the park now, with lots of cyclers and hikers on the trails and along the parkway. It was wonderful to see so many people enjoying the places we love so much. 

The breeze off the water was a perfect balance for the heat, and the waves breaking along the shoreline almost made the wind visible. 

While Cavendish Beach was busy, other areas along the parkway were almost empty, making it a great area to explore.

Gulls are interesting this time of year. While we spoke with another couple on Rad E-bikes, I was distracted by the sounds of several gulls which appeared to challenge a Bald Eagle circling over an area the gulls were protecting. They flew at the eagle and made their best threatening sounds until the eagle flew off.

Further along the Parkway, at Orby Head, it looked like there weren’t any birds on the point until I walked to the far end of the Head. Below was a flock of Great Cormorants. 

I had never seen never so many of these cormorants together. The orange on their beaks resembles a chin strap.

At the end of the Parkway, at the beach at North Rustico, a flock of gulls enjoyed the beach. 

Across the parkway in a small pond, members of the flock dropped in to play. Here, the Black-backed Gulls, mature and immature, dabbled, splashed and did wing displays. We enjoyed seeing their fun on the water on a hot summer day.

We had lunch at Cavendish Grove again, one of our favourite picnic areas. The trees provided shade and nature’s fan through the trees was perfect. It was quiet except for the birds chatting as they went about their day. 

A hot day along the northern coastline of Prince Edward Island is perfect!

 

Along the north shore

White caps. We had never seen the water so rough. When it’s stormy in Prince Edward Island, my husband and I are never by the sea. On this beautiful late August day, the wind is high and the water on the north shore is churning. 

You can hear the waves crashing into the shore rather than the gentle lap of waves along the beach which is so familiar.

We can smell the sea too, that salty, seaweed smell which is a welcome reminder of our youth in Newfoundland. That is a first for us on this island too. We let it seep into our beings as we stand on the cape along the north shore in the National Park.

The cliffs of the north shore are in sharp contrast to the depth of blue and the white caps rushing towards them. The cliffs are high too, among the highest on the island, known for its sand dunes and rolling hills. Standing along the edge of the cliffs one is impressed with the power of wind and water. 

At the lookout at MacKenzies Brook, you can see how the wave action has eroded a cave in the cliffs and the end of the cave is open now too, forming a tunnel. How long will it be before the surface above collapses?

From Orby Head, one can see the far east of the island through the haze. 

To the west, the lighthouse at Cape Tryon is visible 

and beyond it, a hint of the western tip of the island.

Below these cliffs, cormorants have their nests but all are empty today. 

They forgot to post the ‘Gone fishing’ signs.

Further along the coast, at Cape Turner, a tree defies gravity and clings to life at the top of the cliff. 

The trees along the shoreline here provide shelter from the wind. All across this area, hundreds of butterflies, mainly the Clouded sulphur species, flit across the tall weeds lining the paths.

The sounds of the sea and the movement of the butterflies are magical.

We continue our drive along the coast and have our picnic lunch at Rustico. But that’s another story.